Your email is not valid
Recipient's email is not valid
Submit Close

Your email has been sent.

Click here to send another

A Taste of Spain at the Seder: How to Make Chicken Marbella

Chicken Marbella, once a staple of trendy dinner parties, is now a mainstay recipe for Passover’s festive meals

Print Email
(Elin Schoen Brockman)
Related Content

How To Make the Ultimate Matzo-Ball Soup

Video: Make perfect chicken soup and matzo balls from scratch—just in time for Passover

Turkish Memories, Jewish Food

The new culinary memoir The Ottoman Turk and the Jewish Girl preserves an immigrant family’s history—and its treasured Passover recipes

The Ultimate Roast Chicken

Friday night dinner wouldn’t be the same without this Jewish staple. Here’s the tastiest recipe you’ll find.

Soon after The Silver Palate Cookbook became a smash hit in 1981, one of its iconic dishes, Chicken Marbella, became a staple of New York dinner parties. More than 30 years later, the recipe—with its aromatic blend of prunes, olives, capers, white wine, brown sugar, and tons of oregano and garlic—endures not only as a main course for all sorts of gatherings, but as a go-to entrée for the festive meals at many families’ Passover Seders.

I’ve served it to my own Seder guests for more than a decade and, after some intensive searching on Google and emailing with friends and acquaintances, I discovered that I’m far from alone. My childhood friend Debbie Stadiem Kessler’s mother-in-law from Harrisburg, Pa., first brought the dish to one of Kessler’s Seders in Great Falls, Va., on a Passover some 15 years ago. It became a tradition for Tablet Publisher Jesse Oxfeld’s mother, Ellen Oxfeld, of West Orange, N.J., around 10 years ago when she turned to her copy of The Silver Palate Cookbook in search of “something different” for her Seder. Although Fran Lebowitz once said, in a Passover-themed interview with the New York Times, “It’s entirely possible that in the early ’50s, a very large brisket was delivered to our family and we’re still eating it,” her family also ate Chicken Marbella, according to Lebowitz’s cousin (and my friend) Elaine Koufman, who hosted many of those Seders.

The late Sheila Lukins, who co-authored The Silver Palate Cookbook and three other cookbooks with Julee Rosso, was well aware of Chicken Marbella’s Passover appeal, even if she didn’t originally envision the dish becoming a Seder tradition. “At Passover there’s a lot of cooking to do,” she told Judy Bart Kancigor in a 2008 interview in the Orthodox Union’s Shabbat Shalom. “The Marbella is so delicious and easy to prepare ahead of time.”

Joan Nathan told me recently that while she’s never served Chicken Marbella at a Seder—not even the year that Lukins was a guest at her house—she wasn’t surprised that others do, since “it’s popular for everything—potlucks, weddings.” The recipe has become so popular, in fact, that Nathan included it in her 2005 book The New American Cooking.

In 2011, a Chicago Sun-Times article declared Chicken Marbella “a Jewish holiday and Shabbat dinner favorite.” And it’s no wonder, with its exotic yet somehow nostalgia-inducing combination of sweet, salty, briny, aromatic ingredients, plus the convenience of doing most of the prep work in advance and marinating overnight, then simply baking it the day of the Seder, leaving hosts free to worry about everything but the main course.

***

Lukins and Rosso met when Rosso, who was in advertising, hired Lukins, who was in catering, to do a press party. An enduring partnership was born. They opened The Silver Palate, their tiny gourmet take-out shop on Manhattan’s Upper West Side, soon after the blackout in the summer of 1977, offering three entrees: baked tenderloin of beef, baked ham, and Chicken Marbella. “The Chicken Marbella flew off the counter,” according to Rosso, who now calls herself “chief cook and bottle washer” at the Wickwood Inn, a bed-and-much-more-than-breakfast in Saugatuck, Mich., that she and her husband bought 22 years ago.

The dish, Rosso told me in a phone interview, was inspired first of all by the cuisine she and Lukins encountered while traveling in Spain, where meat dishes are often sparked with olives, and in Morocco, where they loved the tagines, rich braises of meat or poultry or fish with vegetables and sometimes dried or fresh fruits, named for the round ceramic dishes with cone-shaped lids in which they’re traditionally slow-baked. Both Lukins and Rosso had also cooked extensively from Paula Wolfert’s now classic Couscous and Other Good Food From Morocco, which came out in 1973. “The prunes were very much Marrakesh—the tagines,” Rosso said. “And the green olives were Marbella—Spain.”

But there was more. “Sheila was Jewish,” Rosso said, “and I remember when I first met her, that was the first time this old WASP ever ate meat with fruit. She would make me a sweet-and-sour brisket that her mother used to make.”

Lukins’ grandparents came from Russia. In her All Around the World Cookbook she wrote: “I can’t remember which desire came first, my desire to visit their far-away land or my wish to cook like my grandmother. Throughout the years, those memories blended.” So, perhaps, did the culinary influence of her Ashkenazic forebears, who cooked meat with prunes and potatoes and called it tzimmes, blend with that of Mediterranean cooks, including Sephardic Jewish ones, who for centuries had combined meat with fruits.

Claudia Roden, the author of The New Book of Middle Eastern Food and The Book of Jewish Food, explained that the meat-with-fruit tradition originated in the cuisine of ancient Persia and traveled to Baghdad, which became the capital of the Arab empire, and then to North Africa and Spain when Arab armies conquered those parts of the world. “The Jews who lived in Muslim lands adopted the tastes and ways of the homelands they were living in,” Roden told me via email, “with some differences.”

As to whether the Ashkenazic tzimmes and the Sephardic meat-with-fruit traditions are at all related, Roden said that although Sephardic Jews did not often migrate to Eastern Europe, “there could well be a connection, because there was contact between communities and also trade in dried fruit.”

My theory is that it’s not only the lack of last-minute fuss that makes Chicken Marbella a natural for Passover and all other Jewish holidays. The dish resonates in a far deeper, more subliminal sense: Its flavors and aromas throb with Sephardic soul and Ashkenazic soul—this dish covers both bases. Its celebrity fans include Matt Lauer and Ivanka Trump, who cooks it “now and then,” her husband Jared Kushner, publisher of the New York Observer, told me via email. And the 2007 release of The Silver Palate Cookbook 25th Anniversary Edition gave it fresh momentum.

***

As cooks have introduced variations on Chicken Marbella, these culinary cousins have gained in popularity, too. Sue Millen, who served Chicken Marbella at a 1998 Seder I attended in Hamden, Ct., received the following bulletin from her sister-in-law in 2001: “E-mailed this recipe to my mah-jongg ladies for Passover. Thought maybe you, too, were ready for a change from Chicken Marbella.” The recipe was for Chicken Pandora, from Joan Nathan’s Jewish Cooking in America. (“I actually like it better than Marbella,” Millen told me recently, adding that she’d just frozen a batch for this year’s Seder.) According to Nathan, Chicken Pandora, which features artichokes and sun-dried tomatoes as opposed to Chicken Marbella’s green olives and prunes, is now the most popular recipe in her book.

Sun-dried tomatoes also figure in Kancigor’s adaptation in Cooking Jewish: 532 Great Recipes From the Rabinowitz Family, along with apricots (not prunes) and the addition of basil.

I think of Chicken Marrakesh, from The Hadassah Jewish Holiday Cookbook, as the flip side of Chicken Marbella. It contains black olives instead of green, apricots and figs instead of prunes, thyme instead of oregano, and red wine instead of white—plus pecans, cumin, ginger, and green peppercorns.

1 2View as single page
Print Email
marjorie says:

i love this story! my mom was always a huge chicken marbella devotee. i don’t think i’ve had it anywhere but my childhood home, and i’ll always fondly associate it with my childhood.

I always serve a variant of this recipe from Silver Palate II at the High Holidays… Chicken with Figs… The variants being thyme, figs, apricots, black olives and Madeira, but same basic recipe/technique. everyone loves it!

Guest says:

whats the recipe?

whoffman says:

Recipe is at the top left of the article

whoffman says:

Recipe is at the top left of the article

I got a copy of The Silver Palate cookbook when I got married in 1985. I’ve been serving chicken Marbella ever since- it never fails to get raves. My kids just asked me to make the “chicken with the olives” for Seder and I will happily oblige. Again.

Biswa says:

thanks for posting

I just love chicken wings

Hope to see more posts related to

Cookery
Holidays Spain

http://www.spaintaste.com/gourmet-catalonia/

I make Chicken Marbella almost every year for Passover. It’s practically fool-proof. As mentioned, most of the prep is done the night before. The dish can stay in the oven, as needed, on “warm”. And everyone invariably loves it. I make it throughout the year as well. Now, I will eagerly branch out to Chicken Pandora and Chicken Marrakesh. Thank you for those suggestions, as well as your mouthwatering descriptions and thoughtful histories.

Like many here, I came of age with “The Silver Palate Cookbook”. Its flavors, ideas and techniques were revelatory and have aged quite well. As I particularly like Sheila Lukins’ subsequent “Around the World Cookbook” I wrote a salute to the books and to her here:

http://www.slowfamilyonline.com/2009/09/saluting-silver-palates-sheila-lukins/

sedaliasteve says:

I had to try it out. All those contrasting flavors couldn’t work. They do! The overnight marinating gives a great flavor to the chicken and I assume the olive oil helps seal it. I pulled the skin off most of mine and they were still moist and tender. I think I prefer parsley Cilantro has a pretty strong flavor of its own and there is already a lot going with the spices, vinegar and capers.

evalunta says:

we also serve this at our Seder and also for Sukkot. Our family and friends go crazy for it.

Barbara Panken says:

What a wonderful recipe! I have made this dozens of times (maybe hundreds) since the cookbook was first published. And yes, I do serve it at my holiday meals. Thanks for the variations. They sound yummy

Sylvia Scher says:

Hi just laughed. I have been serving Marbella chicken for years for Passover along with salmon so everyone can eat. It has always been a favorite and I thought I was so original

Sharon says:

Since I have made Chicken Marbella for the past five years or so of Seders, thinking I was original, and just recently started loving the Jerusalem chicken mentioned, I decided to do Chicken Marakesh this year to change it up – similar in ease (marinate ahead, mostly done for the event). I’ve tripled it – meaning I have 12 lemons to zest. But the recipe you point to doesn’t say what to do with them! Elsewhere on the Internet I’ve seen that it’s a garnish at the end, which makes sense as it’s the last ingredient. Still – if I’m wrong, I’ll be sad. Definitely not going to put 12 lemons on my seder plate. :)

Lucy says:

I made this last year for the Seder and it was a big hit. This year I didn’t have to make a Seder and I am now marinating it in the fridge. I love it so much!

Nancy Saulson says:

My mother made this recipe for Seder for many years and I have done so since she passed in 2006. My extended family would never forgive me if I made any other chicken dish!!

2000

Your comment may be no longer than 2,000 characters, approximately 400 words. HTML tags are not permitted, nor are more than two URLs per comment. We reserve the right to delete inappropriate comments.

Thank You!

Thank you for subscribing to the Tablet Magazine Daily Digest.
Please tell us about you.

A Taste of Spain at the Seder: How to Make Chicken Marbella

Chicken Marbella, once a staple of trendy dinner parties, is now a mainstay recipe for Passover’s festive meals