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A Montreal Jewish Deli Grows in Brooklyn

We head to Mile End

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Smoked meat poutine.(All pictures by Kate Hurwitz)

New York says New York’s best deli is Mile End, the new, Montreal-style Jewish deli in Brooklyn. This is bound to cause a stir, especially given that the New York Daily News already railed against Mile End in a faux-angry editorial for polluting the city with Montreal’s distinctive bagels, which are smaller, flatter, and sweeter than what we’re used to here.

Started by law-school dropout Noah Bermanoff, Mile End, a small, tightly packed storefront with a few picnic-style tables, a counter, and an open kitchen, aims to bring to New York the experience of eating in that eponymous Montreal neighborhood—long the center of the Canadian city’s Jewish population—and specifically to provide “smoked meat,” which is pastrami-but-not-quite, to the good people living south of the border.

Mile End’s bagels are actually shipped in from Montreal’s St.-Viateur, but everything else is local: like many of the other popular restaurants in the leafy, stroller-heavy Brooklyn neighborhood of Boerum Hill, the meat is sustainable and the vegetables house-pickled (it even serves cups of coffee from hip bean purveyor Stumptown). I headed there during prime Sunday brunching hours to see what all the fuss was about. A half-hour wait, an hour meal, and an appallingly full stomach later, I emerged with a much, much better idea.

• The smoked meat hash (below) had charred potatos and onions, with bits of smoked meat strewn about that I ended up spending an inordinate amount of time scraping for, like the prize at the bottom of the cereal box. It came topped with a fried egg, perhaps under the theory that there is nothing that a fried egg won’t make better (a theory for which this dish could serve as useful evidence). Delish.



• The Mont Royal was a large, stuffed latke that—unlike some—didn’t attempt to disguise the potato taste. It was topped with be-chived crème fraiche (more things should use crème fraiche!), perhaps intended to resemble the snow that frequently caps this high hill of Montreal (which abuts Mile End). Plus lox. It was Sunday morning, after all.

• It was the first meal of the day, but how can you not get a smoked meat sandwich! I had remembered smoked meat at Schwartz’s—which practically invented the thing!—as really quite similar to pastrami, maybe only a little thicker. But Mile End’s smoked meat is much more halfway between pastrami, with the tongue-shocking electricity (you’ll find yourself crunching whole peppercorns) and peppery aftertaste, and BBQ brisket, thick and stringy and so rich as almost to be sweet. The sandwich comes on rye and with house-made mustard, very conservatively applied; you can put more on, but you shouldn’t.

• Ah yes, the poutine (top picture). The smoked meat poutine. Poutine is fries, thick gravy, and cheese curds (read Calvin Trillin’s recent New Yorker article for more). All of that, plus smoked meat. This is can’t-miss. Just make sure you exercise a lot afterward—once you can move again.

And, finally, the special Montreal bagels? You think I ate one of those? This is New York!

Mile End

Related: Best of New York [New York]
My Son the Meat Smoker [New York]
Bageled: No Thanks to Montreal Version of New York’s Favorite Hole in One [NY Daily News]

Earlier: Bagel Wars

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Peter W. says:

“Tablet” styles itself as a read on Jewish life, yet this review makes no mention at all as to whether or not Mile End is kosher. That speaks volumes on Tablet’s read on Jewish life today.

Peter W. says:

Oops! Mile End serves cheese curds, so I guess that answers that question. Mea culpa.

Marcia Almey says:

Of course it’s not kosher! Read the article: it serves meat dishes with dairy. That’s sure not your bubbe’s kosher!

i can’t believe marc didn’t even TASTE a montreal bagel when he apparently consumed 9,000 calories of poutine.
DUDE.
I WANT TO KNOW ABOUT THE BAGELS.

Marcia Almey says:

Of course Montreal bagels are GOOD. They’re the best! Full disclosure: I’m Canadian.

Pastrami and cheese curds on french fries? Sweet bagels? Yech! Call me a traditionalist, but I like the way we do things in NYC just fine.

Natalie Lainoff says:

Actually, my husband used to make bagels when we lived in Bklyn. They also had a sweetness them … delicious. They were first boiled in a huge pot and then baked. Unfortunately he no longer makes them!!!

I’ve said that least 4780182 times. The problem this like that is they are just too compilcated for the average bird, if you know what I mean

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A Montreal Jewish Deli Grows in Brooklyn

We head to Mile End

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