One of my joys of summer is cooking and eating rhubarb. My garden is prolific with the tart-tasting vegetable. I gently pull out the edible leaf stalks, selecting the sweeter red ones and discarding the leaves, to make pies, pavlovas, cakes, compotes, and crumbles using recipes from every country in Europe.
A few years ago when I was visiting Strasbourg, France, doing research for my book Quiches, Kugels and Couscous, My Search for Jewish Cooking in France, it seemed that every Jewish cook I visited served me a rhubarb tart topped with a custard, unlike American rhubarb pies, which almost always marry rhubarb with the sweeter strawberry.