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Kakas

September 04, 2024
Kakas

Shibani Mishra Photography

Every community seems to have its own traditional dishes with which to break the Yom Kippur fast. In my Jewish-Australian-Indian family, our post-fast feast features what we refer to using the Arabic word machbooz: a collection of baked treats including date-filled biscuits called date babas (also known as baba b’tamar), cheese-filled pastries called cheese samoosas (originally known as cheese sambusaks), and ring-shaped biscuits called kakas.

Ring-shaped pastries called kaak were introduced to India by Iraqi Jews in the 19th century. Somewhere along the way, kaak morphed into kaka. Kakas are baked year-round, but to me, they always taste best after not having eaten for 25 hours.

The trick to making kakas is to bake them until they’re golden; they should be light and a little crunchy. It takes time and some patience to roll the dough and form it into rings, but once you get the hang of it, rolling and shaping the dough can be quite soothing.

My favorite way to eat these simple biscuits is to dunk them into a cup of tea, but they’re equally good on their own. Just a warning: Kakas are incredibly more-ish. If there are any left after the fast, they don’t last longer than a day or two in my pantry.

To make vegan kakas, use dairy-free margarine. (I always make them this way.)

I don’t like fennel seeds so I never add them to my kakas. But you, like many others, might love the fennel seed version. If so, feel free to add more than the two teaspoons in the recipe.

This is an edited excerpt from Indian-Jewish Food: Recipes and Stories from the Backstreets of Bondi, by Elana Benjamin (Sydney Jewish Museum). Copyright Elana Benjamin 2024.

Photography credit: Shibani Mishra

Ingredients

  • 3cups self-rising flour
  • 4oz (125g) butter or margarine
  • 2tbsp super-fine or caster sugar (if you can't find super-fine, use granulated sugar)
  • 2tsp fennel seeds (optional)
  • cup warm water
Yield: Makes 48

Preparation

  • Step 1

    In a large bowl, cube the butter or margarine and rub it into the flour with your fingertips until it resembles coarse breadcrumbs.

  • Step 2

    Stir in the sugar and fennel seeds. Add the water and mix until you have a soft dough. (If you need to add more water to bring the dough together, do so slowly, half a teaspoon at a time.)

  • Step 3

    Put the dough in a freezer bag, seal the bag, and leave the dough to rest for 30 minutes.

  • Step 4

    Line two baking trays with parchment paper. Divide the dough into four equal-sized balls. Return three balls to the freezer bag so they don’t dry out. Divide the remaining ball into 12 equal-sized balls.

  • Step 5

    Roll one ball into a thin snake, approximately 7 inches (18cm) long and ½ inch (1.25 cm) wide. (I find it easiest to do this on a silicone pastry mat, using both hands.) Form the snake into a ring and pinch the ends together to seal the kaka. Place the kaka on the baking tray, allowing enough space for it to expand a little. Repeat until all the dough is used.

  • Step 6

    Bake at 350 degrees (180 C) for 18-20 minutes, or until the kakas are golden. Cool them on a wire rack and store in an airtight container. Kakas also freeze well.