Hummus and History

Chickpeas were one of the first legumes to be cultivated by humans. Evidence of wild chickpeas dating back to 8000 BCE was discovered in Tell el-Kerkh, in present-day Syria. Called chometz in Hebrew, chickpeas are only mentioned once in the Bible, in Isaiah30:24: “The oxen likewise and the young asses that till the ground shall eat salted chometz (chickpeas) that have been winnowed with shovel and fan.” The Jerusalem Talmud refers to several varieties of chickpeas, or khimtza in Aramaic, that vary in size and color.

Chickpeas were known to the ancient Egyptians and were cultivated in Thailand as far back as 7000 BCE. They were also grown by the ancient Greeks, who used them to make soups and stews. Young, tender, fresh chickpeas, as well as roasted chickpeas, were often served by the Greeks for dessert, together with nuts and figs. Chickpeas were even mentioned, along with black beans, in Homer’s epic poem The Iliad. Since ancient times, chickpeas have been a symbol of prosperity and good fortune and appeared in the celebrations and festive rites of various cultures to signify fertility and renewal. The ancient Romans associated the chickpea with Venus—the goddess of love— because they believed they increased the production of semen in men, and milk in nursing mothers.

It is customary for Jews, especially Ashkenazi Jews, to celebrate a shalom zachar, a gathering that takes place on the first Friday after the birth of a boy. For this occasion, the refreshments usually include chickpeas, because they are often served to mourners as a symbol of the cycle of life. One interpretation of the reason for this is that the baby’s soul is in mourning, because it has come down to a world full of negativity and degradation. Another explanation is that while in the womb, the baby is taught the entire Torah, but after his birth, an angel descends and strikes him on the mouth, which causes him to forget everything he has learned. As a result, the baby is thought of as a “mourner.” So even though the shalom zachar is considered a happy occasion, people come to the home to console him. Thus, the chickpeas.

Chickpeas are traditionally served by both Sephardic and Ashkenazi Jews for Purim, because as a vegetarian, Queen Esther was thought to live on a diet based on legumes, grains, nuts, and seeds.

Chickpeas have, of course, been a staple food in the Middle East for millennia—for both Jews and Muslims. One of the most ubiquitous dishes made with chickpeas is hummus, which in ancient times probably simply consisted of mashed chickpeas and spices. Falafel—little balls made with mashed chickpeas and spices—is another chickpea dish thought to originate in ancient Egypt, which then spread all over the Middle East. The name falafel is said to derive from the Egyptian word melfelfel, which means “spicy.” In the 1950s and ’60s, falafel became a popular street food in Israel and was soon adopted all around the world.

Today, chickpeas—also known as garbanzo beans, Bengal gram, and Egyptian peas—are one of the most widely grown legumes in the world. There are two main varieties of chickpeas: Kabuli and Desi. Kabuli chickpeas—sometimes called white chickpeas—are large, round, and pale in color, with a thin seed coat. Desi chickpeas, on the other hand, are smaller with a thicker outer coating that should be removed before using. Their color can vary from black, brown, and green to orange and yellow. Desi chickpeas are mainly sold hulled or split and usually appear in Indian dishes, especially curries; they are also widely used in Ethiopian cooking. Another, less common variety of chickpea is ceci neri or “black chickpeas,” which are only cultivated in southern Italy.

Chickpeas have many uses in the kitchen. They can be used in all kinds of salads, soups, and stews, as well as pasta or rice dishes. Chickpeas can also be ground into a flour and made into a kind of pancake called socca in Provence, farinata in Tuscany, and faina in Liguria. In India, chickpea flour, called besan or gram flour, is used to make besan chilla (spicy chickpea flour pancakes), besan ki roti (a flat bread made with chickpea flour), and various pakoras—savory vegetable fritters—that are among India’s most popular street foods. Besan is also used in various Indian sweets like mysore pak—a sweet fudge made with gram flour, ghee (clarifed butter), and sugar; or besan burfi, traditional, melt-in-your-mouth sweets made with roasted besan flour, ghee, sugar syrup, and ground cardamom that are often served for festivals. Aquafaba, the liquid in canned chickpeas or the water used to cook dried chickpeas, is often used as a vegan substitute for eggs, especially to make cakes, cookies, and ice cream.

Pulses, especially chickpeas, are a good source of soluble fiber and protein, so they are perfect for vegetarians and vegans alike. Chickpeas are also gluten-free and low on the glycemic index, so they can help control your blood sugar, which is important for people with diabetes. They are also rich in choline, which is said to be good for your memory and muscle control, and may even improve your mood.