(Len Small/Tablet Magazine)

The holiday of Shavuot marks the giving of the law at Mount Sinai. To celebrate, people stay up all night studying. They also eat dairy foods—milk, blintzes, and cheesecake—although there seems to be little agreement as to why.

Fred Schuster opened S&S Cheesecake in 1960; he now has help from his son-in-law, Yair Ben-Zaken. Together, they supply steakhouses and gourmet shops around the country—Dean & Deluca, Morton’s, Smith & Wollensky. Reporter Blake Eskin decided to make a pilgrimage, by subway, to their windowless one-story brick bakery at 238th Street in the Bronx, home to what many consider to be the best cheesecake in the country. Here’s his audio postcard, from our archive.