Tablet Magazine

Hummus and History

The chickpea connects modern-day Jews to our ancestors from thousands of years ago

Chickpeas were one of the first legumes to be cultivated by humans. Evidence of wild chickpeas dating back to 8000 BCE was discovered in Tell el-Kerkh, in present-day Syria. Called chometz in Hebrew, chickpeas are only mentioned once in the Bible, in Isaiah 30:24: “The oxen likewise and the young asses that till the ground shall eat salted chometz (chickpeas) that have been winnowed with shovel and fan.” The Jerusalem Talmud refers to several varieties of chickpeas, or khimtza in Aramaic, that vary in size and color. Chickpeas were known to the ancient Egyptians and were cultivated in Thailand as far back as 7000 BCE. They were also grown by the ancient Greeks, who used them to make soups and stews. Young, tender, fresh chickpeas, as well as roasted chickpeas, were often served by the Greeks for dessert, together with nuts and figs. Chickpeas were even mentioned, along with black beans, in Homer’s epic poem The Iliad. Since ancient times, chickpeas have been a symbol of prosperity and good fortune and appeared in the celebrations and festive rites of various cultures to signify fertility and renewal. The ancient Romans associated the chickpea with Venus—the goddess of love— because they believed they increased the production of semen in men, and milk in nursing mothers. It is customary for Jews, especially Ashkenazi Jews, to celebrate a shalom zachar, a gathering that takes place on the first Friday after the birth of a boy. For this occasion, the refreshments usually include chickpeas, because they are often served to mourners as a symbol of the cycle of life. One interpretation of the reason for this is that the baby’s soul is in mourning, because it has come down to a world full of negativity and degradation. Another explanation is that while in the womb, the baby is taught the entire Torah, but after his birth, an angel descends and strikes him on the mouth, which causes him to forget everything he has learned. As a result, the baby is thought of as a “mourner.” So even though the shalom zachar is considered a happy occasion, people come to the home to console him. Thus, the chickpeas. ...

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This Week’s Recipe

Funfetti Hamantaschen

Hamantaschen had always been one of Micah Siva’s favorite Jewish treats, but she felt they were long overdue for a rebrand. In her cookbook, Nosh: Plant-Forward Recipes Celebrating Modern Jewish Cuisine, Siva updates and veganizes her favorite holiday cookie with a dash of almond extract, colorful sprinkles, and a simple cashew “cheesecake” filling for a hamantaschen that can be made all year-round.

Explore all our recipes here.

Encyclopedia

Russ & Daughters

[rʌs-ænd-ˈdɔ-tərz] noun

Joel Russ arrived in Manhattan from Poland in 1907 and eked out a living selling schmaltz herring out of a barrel on the Lower East Side. Wh...

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Joan Knows Best

Everyone says their mom is the best cook, but when your mom is Joan Nathan, cooking looks a little bit different. Join Joan Nathan and her son, David Henry Gerson, for a video series covering Joan’s favorite Shabbat dinner recipes with a seasonal twist.

Joan Nathan is Tablet Magazine’s food columnist and the author of 10 cookbooks including King Solomon’s Table: a Culinary Exploration of Jewish Cooking from Around the World.

Perfect Pita

Joan Knows Best: The best way to make the ancient bread in your modern kitchen—thanks to a tip from chef Michael Solomonov

Shake Up Brunch With Shakshuka

Joan Knows Best: The best way to make this popular tomato-and-egg dish—with some help from Israeli chef Erez Komarovsky

The Pleasure of Pletzel

Joan Knows Best: The best way to make this Eastern European flatbread—with some advice from food writer and radio host Arthur Schwartz

100 Foods and Beyond

Check out Tablet’s book The 100 Most Jewish Foods: A Highly Debatable List, and learn the stories behind iconic Jewish dishes. Argue with your friends about what we left out. And if you get hungry, we’ve included 60 recipes, too. And then there’s more...

Play the Jewish Foods Memory Game with your kids. Match up doubles of chicken soup, or borscht, or kreplach, and work up their appetite in the process.

Or try the 500-piece 100 Foods circular puzzle, and set the perfect table filled with your favorite Jewish foods.

Or check out this sticker book, featuring the tastiest items from 100 Most Jewish Foods. Put your favorite stickers on your laptop, your notebook, or your refrigerator.

You can buy all the merchandise, plus The Newish Jewish Encyclopedia, edited by the hosts of Tablet’s Unorthodox podcast, by clicking here.

Encyclopedia

appetizing

[ˈæp·ɪˌtɑɪ·zɪŋ] adjective

Appetizing stores are the fish-and-dairy answer to the Jewish delicatessen. Instead of pastrami sandwiches stacked high, you come here for t...

A Plant-Based Quandary

Muslims, Jews, and Catholics wrestle with the religious implications of fake meat

PLNT Burger is a restaurant that offers plant-based alternatives to all-American favorites like burgers and shakes—all 100% kosher and halal. The first restaurant opened in Silver Spring, Maryland, 2019, and has expanded to 14 locations spanning from northern Virginia to Boston. The overarching philosophy, said co-founder Seth Goldman, is an effort to make food accessible to the widest possible cross section of people, regardless of their dietary choices—whether religious, medical, or ethical in nature. Despite some quibbles and caveats, for people of many faiths, plant-based meat and dairy substitutes complement their practices around food and diet by driving intentionality, to change the world by making what his wife and co-founder, Julie Farkas, calls “little changes, every day.” Veganism and vegetarianism are increasingly accepted by the American mainstream, whether it’s out of concern for the environment and animals, or for their own health, and people of various faith traditions with dietary restrictions are embracing the trend. While plant-based meat substitutes mean Jews, Muslims, and even some Christians might now enjoy a guilt-free cheeseburger or slice of (mushroom) bacon, there are those who see such alternatives as potentially problematic workarounds. Other religions have their sanctioned alternatives to off-limit substances—coffee substitutes for Latter-day Saints, capybara instead of fish on Fridays for Catholics in Latin America—but plant-based meat can present something of a different challenge for many religious traditions: What if it’s too close to the real thing?...

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We fight about everything, but food is one thing that brings us together.

A Place at the Table, by Jamie Betesh Carter

How do you hummus?

With the original recipe dating all the back to the 13th century, hummus has become quite possibly the most popular middle eastern dish of our time.

It’s been called a peacemaker, and has been the subject of lots of controversy. Whether it’s your entire meal, or a dip for your vegetables, there are so many opinions, and stories to share about our delectible dish.

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